Our Discussion Forums and Online Classifieds may be viewed by anyone, but posting new questions or responding to existing messages is limited to VBA members.
This icon on any site menu indicates a page or service that is for VBA members.
Hello all, just wondering if anyone has used a propane fogger to treat for mites ? If so, how successful ? And what was used for an agent ? Have watched some videos but would like to know if anyone has actually tried it ? Thanks. Peter
The reason I brought up this subject is that a fellow beekeeper nearby has two Apiary's. He treated both exactly the same (Formic Pro etc.) for varroa, except one location, he also fogged with the Oxalic Acid method. He lost all of his hives at the location where he did not "fog" but all his hives survived that were fogged. These were located about 3 miles apart. I believe he fogged late in the Fall.
Hopefully this method will continue to be successful. I think I read somewhere that European Beekeepers have been using this, with success, for years.
Hopefully this method will continue to be successful. I think I read somewhere that European Beekeepers have been using this, with success, for years.
Oxalic is a highly effective means of varroa mite control that does not effect brood like formic. Three weeks of treatment and you are not treating again until spring unless we have another warm October and you realize in November your bees were off robbing the untreated hives because there is no flow. The beauty of propane and fogging is you can treat when it's cold though.
Thymol is great for tracheal mites and can also be used in fogger. I don't use that either as my concern here in the Northeast is Varroa Destructor.
Thymol is great for tracheal mites and can also be used in fogger. I don't use that either as my concern here in the Northeast is Varroa Destructor.
Thank you for the info. I have watched a few videos and it seems like a great treatment. Have you ever tried just using Mineral Oil ? Or Mineral oil with wintergreen ? If it worked as well you would not have the expense of the alcohol or danger of Oxalic Acid.
The other question is timing. The procedure seems to be once a week for three weeks and then every three weeks thereafter. Do you agree ? Peter.
The other question is timing. The procedure seems to be once a week for three weeks and then every three weeks thereafter. Do you agree ? Peter.
Caveat is we are not talking about a black and decker fogger. We are speaking of mite control propane fogger with a 18 inch wand. If you don't have the wand then do not use a solution that can ignite.
Speaking of ignition, ensure grass is cut and not too dry if fogging low to ground hives. The muffler on foggers will easily start grass fires that could get ugly quick. My hives are on pallets with plastic under them so have no worries. Have treated others hives as favor and spent more time ensuring the small fires I'd started were not going to start up again then it took to suit up and fog.
Speaking of ignition, ensure grass is cut and not too dry if fogging low to ground hives. The muffler on foggers will easily start grass fires that could get ugly quick. My hives are on pallets with plastic under them so have no worries. Have treated others hives as favor and spent more time ensuring the small fires I'd started were not going to start up again then it took to suit up and fog.
I use one. It took a few trials to get the right dosage. 25-30 grams per 100 ml solution.
When new just use with the liquid you plan to mix into to dial in the flow. There is a nylon lock washer to adjust. Get fog and no mist. Then empty out and mix up solution. You could use water, I started with grain alcohol which is a pain to purchase and actually far too pricey. I then was going to get a 100 or 150 proof cheap something or other but the store I stopped at that day didn't seem to carry such a product. Settled for the cheapest large plastic bottle of 80 proof vodka they had. Worked as well as grain alcohol.
The thought is the higher proof would allow you to use lowest gas flame to fog. Turns out the 80 proof still fogged fine at the lowest gas setting before the flame sputters out. You do need a higher flame to get water to fog without misting. Is that going to relate to steam temperature? I've not bothered to experiment that far because a two liter jug of vodka is not much money and will go a long way.
You should use a respirator. If you don't have one Sherwin Williams and other places sell a carbon filter face mask. That could be used many years if you were gentle with it.
As for fog instead of vapor and using propane instead of butane? Absolutely great. The wand is brake line so bends to fit into low to ground hives, can fit into non typical hives like horizontal langstroth that sometimes have one inch drill holes for entrances. Propane works in freezing weather and butane will not function when cold. The "hardship" of oxalic in needing to treat three times for full brood cycle is made so simple it's almost too easy. Minute to heat up and ready to fog, maybe 30 seconds time per hive fogging. It's not a project you made special trip to yard for it's an end of typical yard inspection few minute detail.
Just remember to empty and run water through to clean it out. If oxalic solution is left in it for day it will start to crystalize and gum the system up. Clog the tip and so forth. I keep water in mine and have mixture in jelly jar. Empty the water in the bee yard, pour in solution and use it for the day as many yards as you want. Pour solution back into jar when home and run it clean with water and leave water in it until next use.
In short I think it's brilliant.
When new just use with the liquid you plan to mix into to dial in the flow. There is a nylon lock washer to adjust. Get fog and no mist. Then empty out and mix up solution. You could use water, I started with grain alcohol which is a pain to purchase and actually far too pricey. I then was going to get a 100 or 150 proof cheap something or other but the store I stopped at that day didn't seem to carry such a product. Settled for the cheapest large plastic bottle of 80 proof vodka they had. Worked as well as grain alcohol.
The thought is the higher proof would allow you to use lowest gas flame to fog. Turns out the 80 proof still fogged fine at the lowest gas setting before the flame sputters out. You do need a higher flame to get water to fog without misting. Is that going to relate to steam temperature? I've not bothered to experiment that far because a two liter jug of vodka is not much money and will go a long way.
You should use a respirator. If you don't have one Sherwin Williams and other places sell a carbon filter face mask. That could be used many years if you were gentle with it.
As for fog instead of vapor and using propane instead of butane? Absolutely great. The wand is brake line so bends to fit into low to ground hives, can fit into non typical hives like horizontal langstroth that sometimes have one inch drill holes for entrances. Propane works in freezing weather and butane will not function when cold. The "hardship" of oxalic in needing to treat three times for full brood cycle is made so simple it's almost too easy. Minute to heat up and ready to fog, maybe 30 seconds time per hive fogging. It's not a project you made special trip to yard for it's an end of typical yard inspection few minute detail.
Just remember to empty and run water through to clean it out. If oxalic solution is left in it for day it will start to crystalize and gum the system up. Clog the tip and so forth. I keep water in mine and have mixture in jelly jar. Empty the water in the bee yard, pour in solution and use it for the day as many yards as you want. Pour solution back into jar when home and run it clean with water and leave water in it until next use.
In short I think it's brilliant.
- Page :
- 1
There are no replies made for this post yet.
Be one of the first to reply to this post!
Be one of the first to reply to this post!